Blackwork Jacket

So E has challenged me to make myself a blackworked coat, similar to the beautiful blackwork in Anonymous (beautiful blackwork, horrible storyline).

So I have found a coat pattern:

http://www.trulyvictorian.net/tvxcart/product.php?productid=80&page=2

I will be doing the pattern that is slightly longer then the knee, but not so long as to be floor length.  I think this will allow me to wear the coat even when I don’t have a bustle on.

The fabric:

http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/p/12408/Light-Camel-Cashmere

The lining:

http://www.belraffabrics.com/fabrics/fashion/silk/1840-black-silk-charmeuse.html

The silk for the blackwork:

http://www.mjtrim.com/thread-1094yds-spl.html

 

Here is the blackwork I have designed:

Image

It is 3.5″ wide and 4.5″ long repeating pattern. 

I will be doing the pattern in long lines down the coat, with probably 2.5″ between the longitudinal striped blackwork.

Since the jacket will not always be closed I am going to do a simple thin pattern on the turn back:

Image

This pattern is approx 1/2″ wide and will run the length of the inside and up the turn of the coat.

Advertisements

Shirt Finished!

So I was nudged because I finished the shirt 2 days ago and hadn’t posted anything about it…

I ended up making 3 collars and 2 cuff sets to go with the 1 shirt.

Image

The cuff sets, collars, accessories and shirt.

I decided on linen for E’s shirt because it is what I had.  You will see a distinct lack of buttons due to the fact that this is kind of a tuxedo style shirt as it is all attached with collar studs, shirt studs, cuff studs and cuff links.  You can see a sampling of the mentioned when looking at the collars and cuffs.

Image

The wing tip tall standup collar, the tall spread fold over collar and the tall simple stand up collar.

Image

One set has a swoop in it and one is a more standard straight edge.

 

vpll1912 Corset Cover – Planning

I have officially joined the 1912 Lending Library and I am currently working on my first piece.  I am taller than most girls at 5’9″ and most definitely taller then the ladies at the turn of the last century.  I had to do quite a few edits in order to make the corset cover even resemble something that would fit me.

I mapped 4″ from each end and drew a straight line to spread.

 

The peplum is spread 2".

The peplum is spread 2″ on each side and then the hip curve is used to smooth the lines on each side.

The peplum cut out and ready for mock-up.

Next is the back piece, again I am tall so I needed to lengthen and to widen the back slightly.

The back piece with length and width added.

You can see by the inch markings on the backboard that I did the length addition 3″ from the bottom edge and 2″ from the center fold line.  I added 1″ to the width and 4″ to the length.  I again smoothed all of the lines using the hip curve, except the center back which I used a straight edge as it will be on the fold.

Front Piece with initial additions.

Now the front piece is always the difficult one because everyone is shaped differently.  I started by adding 4″ to the length and adding1″ under the arm and to the front.  After the mock-up was made, the back and arms fit wonderfully, the front on the other hand was definitely too baggy.

the paper mock up with the changes on the right, the final edition on the left including the changes.

There were three main edits to the mock-up.  The first, as can be clearly seen in the picture, was taking out a large section of the length addition in the front and tapering as it moved towards the back.  The second edit was to take out a portion of the center front width, it was removed completely at the top and then tapered back in as it went down the length of the addition.  The third edit was to shape the armhole slightly at the seam where the back and front sections meet.  The darts were extended up to meet where the length addition separated the points and the lines were all smoothed with a straight edge or hip curve.

The mock-up with all of the changes was tried on over the Combination and the Corset with the mock-up of the top for both dresses on top, the sleeves on the Corset Cover were a little wide so I will edit that portion down for the final edition of the Corset Cover, but not for the pattern.

Tomorrow I will finalize the mock-up and make the Corset Cover out of cotton gauze, finishing with several small buttons and some muslin bias tape.

Corset Combination

First I started with the Simplicity Pattern 2890, which is one of the Historical patterns.  From there I took it apart and decided on the format I wanted for the combination.  I had already decided that I wanted the combination to be sleeveless, almost like a tank-jumper.

Image

I also made the combination so that it has a split crotch, I want to be able to go to the bathroom when I am all dolled up!

The fabric I chose was a cotton gauze for how light weight the fabric is and the fact that it is super breathable.

Image

I got a nice crochet cotton lace and wove a 1/4″ cream ribbon through it in order to create a drawstring at the top and at the knees.  If you take a look at the pattern I decided to keep the pants almost whole and the top waistband is actually the waistband between the tube top and the pantelets.

The outfit so far is very comfortable and I am very excited about how it is coming together.

Edit:  On Wednesday I got a few shots of the Combination without the Corset.

This corset cover is a combination that is connected at the waistband.

The Corset Cover split can be seen a little here and the top is dropping down a bit since the corset is off.

Research for Titanic

So as everyone knows, I am kind of a research fiend…. I love researching and making sure that the ideas I have are justified and that I have a leg to stand on.

While trying to figure out what kind of collar boning I would need for my guimp for the tea dress I found this:

http://festiveattyre.blogspot.com/2011/09/edwardian-collar-stays.html

These collar stays are exactly the solution I needed for my guimp and we can make them at home.

 

Also I started sketching out the process for the 2 dresses and the guimp and I will be working on the mock-ups tomorrow.  The Tea Dress is requiring much more alteration then the Evening Gown, I definitely hadn’t expected that.  Also the sarees have been ordered and they will be here in the next week and a half and I will be ordering all of the silks at the end of the week.  I am just getting more and more excited.