Taking Measurements 101

To begin finding your desired pattern you need your correct measurements. The measurements on a pattern can be very confusing if you don’t know how to apply your measurements. Diana’s Sewing Lessons has given a very good overview of Butterick and Vogue measurements as well as McCalls/Simplicity measurements.

This is a picture heavy post so that you can see the different places to measure. The “high bust” measurement is taken above the breasts and under the arms, very strange to me as I have never taken this measurement before. The hardest thing for me to remember is that the “high bust” measurement is actually the “Bust” for Simplicity and McCalls, which I am most familiar with, and the measurement is the “Chest” for Buttericks and Vogue.

Male High Bust Measurement B/V  = Chest M/S = Bust

Male High Bust Measurement
B/V = Chest
M/S = Bust

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Female High Bust Measurement B/V = Chest M/S = Bust

Then you take your traditional bust measurement at the nipples and that is the “Bust” in Buttericks and Vogue, but not used at all for Simplicity and McCalls.

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Male Bust Measurement B/V = Bust M/S = N/A

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Female Bust Measurement B/V = Bust M/S = N/A

The waist measurement is the same for all 4 pattern makers, at the smallest portion of the waist, usually a couple inches above the belly button.

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Male Waist Measurement B/V = Waist M/S = Waist

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Female Waist Measurement B/V = Waist M/S = Waist

The hips measurement is also the same for all 4 pattern makers at the widest part of your butt.

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Male Hip Measurement B/V = Hip M/S = Hip

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Female Hip Measurement B/V = Hip M/S = Hip

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Whitney’s Current Measurements at 08/15

Planning of 18th Century Undergarments

The printer has been obtained and I have decided on the Corsets and Crinolines whalebone stay and the panniers d’acier a charnieres.

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I am going to end up using cable ties instead of boning and 16 gauge wire instead of hoop wire due to my constraints in Turkey.  I do have access to great fabrics so I am not worried about the quality and I will be using a twill instead of coutil.  There is a wide selection of ribbon so I am going to try and find velvet but I will do my best.

Next step is going to be getting a cheap sheet and making a mockup of the bodice.  Our shipment with the sewing machines should be here in a couple weeks and I will see what I can get done with the hand crank I got for Christmas!

New Project!

SOOOO EXCITED!!!

I am now in Ankara, Turkey and we have been presented the opportunity to go to a Masqued Ball in Versailles, France! At *THE PALACE*!  I have 6 months to plan and implement with a small hindrance of my go-to supplies not being readily at hand.  We have started the initial planning and we have now decided on being a Revolutionary War couple coming to court to celebrate the win of the Americans with the help of the French.  Erick wants to be an Infantry Captain and I will be his lovely wife in a truly extravagant dress.

 

Pattern for Erick:

http://www.neheleniapatterns.com/english/englishsite.html Regimental Coat SF201 and Waistcoat SF202.  He would like short breeches to go with his knee high boots.

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Color scheme would be black velvet, white silk, dove grey wool, silver/pewter.

Patterns for Whitney: 

I have decided to go with a closed front robe à la française, there will be a dramatic hat and wig involved.  If my white leather boots are in the shipment from  Houston (I really can’t remember where I packed them) they are of the appropriate style and I will wear those.  I will need panniers and I want to build a full boned stay. The patterns I am looking at are free http://www.marquise.de/en/1700/howto/frauen/contouche.shtml.

My dress will involve a lot of hand beading and creativity and will mostly take the 6 months that I have to complete!

Recipe Chocolate Chip Truffle Cake

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So I thought I would add a little description. The cake is made from the Betty Crocker Gluten Free Chocolate Cake mix. The icing is a modified chocolate ganache from “Sharing Sweet Secrets” by Pamela Moriarty, I adjusted how much 60% guiardelli chocolate drops by color and i upped the amount of cream and addeda Tbls of caster sugar to the outside cream to make it a tad sweet and both the inbetween and outside icing has a Tbls of amaretto liqour in the mix. Oh so tasty… i have never made my own truffles, but this cake tasted just like the organic truffles from heb central market.

Evening Dress Pictures

I have been very busy recently as I have just started a new job, which is awesome, but tiring.

 

Here are the pictures of the Evening dress.  I have a few critiques to start with I have already received a couple yards of black lace that I will be adding at the waist and down the back where the dress is hook and eye latched together to hide the stitching.  I really want to add something to break up the waist on the dress.

The Evening Dress.

I am in love with the square neck on the dress, I love the sarees and how they made the dress just pop.  It was worth all of the time!  The little train in the back was fantastic and I actually really enjoyed taking the trim off of the saree and then replacing it where it needed to go.

The wonderful colors of the Evening Dress.

Here are a couple silly pictures from the evening…

Titanic Zombie! I even made her drop her glove…

After a long night… I was still hungry! (I am secretly a BRAIN SUCKER!)